Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Last Days in India


After Kashmir I made it to Amritsar, and stayed with the Sikh pilgrims at the Golden Temple. This is a really beautiful place, where volunteers feed and give lodging for free to tens of thousands of people daily. I also watched the flag-lowering ceremony on the Pakistan- Indian border, which attracts thousands of spectators cheering on both sides and the guards trying to be as dramatic as posssible, it was like a football match.


Now I'm in Delhi, I've met up with a friend and I'm enjoyng my last few days shopping and eating. Tomorrow, 24 hour train to Mumbai, then flight to London!


So I guess that's the end of the blog, unless something crazy, worth writing about happens on the way home! Looking forward to seeing everyone back in Europe, a bientot!

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

Mcleod Ganj and Kashmir

My last few days in Dharamsala were very interesting. I got chatting to a few monks and ex political prisoners who had spent some time in jail, then escaped Tibet to make their way here. They had some pretty insane stories.


On the 26th of March, a young Tibetan self-immolated in Delhi as a protest to Hu Jintao visiting India. He died the next day and his body was taken here. Subsequently there was a lot of activity and protests around town in solidarity for the free tibet cause.



On a lighter note, this is what paragliding was like:


I'm now in Srinagar, Kashmir. It's been pretty unstable ever since partition in 1947 (Pakistan occupy another part of Kashmir called Azad (free) Kashmir) and there are troops on every street corner, even along the mountain roads in the middle of nowhere, on the way here. The valley is beautiful, and the mountains tower over Dal Lake. When the British were here, they weren't allowed to own land, so the lakes and rivers are full of houseboats. I stayed in one for my first 3 nights, really nice. Non Kashmiris also can't buy land here, so the population is still very Kashmiri, and about 90% Muslim. Although a small percentage of the population believe Kashmir should be part of Pakistan (cheers are heard when Pakistan win at cricket), and a larger amount are happy being a part of India, it seems that most people support a free, independent Kashmir. They claim that though Pakistan and India are both fighting over their territory, they are actually more similar to each other than Kashmiris, who look different, have their own language, culture, history, food... Everything seems quite peaceful here these days, even though it was less than two years since about 100 people were killed in violent pro-independent protests.

Houses here are made of wood and brick, and the old city looks very much like parts of the UK, especially because the weather is equally cloudy/rainy.



Oh let the sun beat down upon my face...



Only Amritsar left then Delhi, and a long train back to Mumbai to catch my flight!

Here's a little cartoon of something that happened ages ago:

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Himalayas

New camera! So here's some pictures...

Morning shower on my birthday in Rishikesh:

Outside the ashram in which the Beatles stayed in the late 60s (now unused) :


After Rishikesh and Haridwar, I headed to the Parvati Valley. This was by far the most beautiful place I've seen in India yet. It also had cheap lodging, amazingly friendly people, and a rich cultural heritage. People look very different up here in the mountains, with paler skin tones and different facial features, some, with straight noses and blue/green eyes, look very Kashmiri. Others look more Tibetan. Either way I feel like I fit in more here as there is so much diversity!

The last few days I went to Manali where I paraglided, which was incredible, and scary and amazing , even though the flight was short. I'm now chilling in Mcleod Ganj, home of the Dalai Lama in exile, so there's plenty of Tibetans here. It's a fun and interesting place, and I'll stay here a few days while planning my next destination: Kashmir!


The Long Trip North

I've now made it to the Himalayas, zigzaging my way up the West Coast. I fell sick part of the way, which was pretty horrible, but I'm fighting on, and with just under a month left to my trip, I'm now moving fast and trying to do as much as I can. Places of interest that I saw:

PONDICHERRY! Really charming, ex-French colony where I ate croissants for breakfast, steak frites for lunch and...tandoori chicken, rice, and roti for dinner, with some kingfisher beer. While it retains much of its Frenchness, Pondicherry combines it amazingly with Tamil Nadu culture, so that I actually heard local people speaking french to each other. It's coastal so really feels like a breath of fresh air, and you can be a flaneur here, chilling on its streets munching on a dosa, with cows idly walking by, small children shouting, and plenty of bikes zooming around and rickshaws honking, but also with its old french architecture and street signs, little art galleries and cafes.

Next I headed to Auroville, another new age/hippie experiment in creating some kind of utopian community. It is its own township with its own laws, with people from over 120 countries living there, and using tokens instead of money. About half the people are foreign, the others from all over India. It was so strange to see schools full of white children and little shops and restaurants here with foreigners. Again, India surprises me!

I then visited two mega cities: Chennai (where I managed to hear some Carnactic music) and Hyderabad, with a big Muslim population. The center is incredible, filled with Islamic architecture, women in burkhas and men in white gowns and hats. aIt relly felt like what I imagine Pakistan, or an Arab country would be like.



After that: Vizag, then Puri, two fun beach towns:



Next up was Calcutta, an incredible city. Take buildings of magnificent, opulent, European architecture, leave them to crumble and age. Chuck in some ambassador (car) taxis, human rickshaws, mosques, temples, animals, smells, dirt, and 14 million people, and you have the West Bengal capital.



I'm now firmly back in the North, and ready to attack the cold and the mountains!

Soundtrack to my trip at the moment: Babyshambles - Shotter's Nation

Thursday, March 15, 2012

HOLI

I decided to spend Hindu festival Holi in the Holiest of places: Varanasi. This is where people come to end the cycle of reincarnation, and bodies are continuously being burned on its ghats after being soaked in the Ganges River. Its a pretty solemn, horrible, fascinating sight to see these bodies burning after a procession leads them down to the river, where they are blessed by holy men.

About Holi though... it's the festival of colours, basically resulting in a massive paint war. Little kids fill up baloons with dye and wait on their terrases, reading to hurl them down at anyone walking down Varanasi's narrow streets. Others will just jump at you with dry dye and smear you with it, so that everyone is an incredible blend of these very vibrant purples pinks, yellows... Most people will stop you in the street to give you a hug and wish you a Happy Holi, and families visit each other with gifts and greetings.

It has its weird side too. There's a lot of drinking involved, from very early on in the morning, and most guys are also consuming bhang (cannabis). It's a strictly male affair, with only a few foreign female tourists risking to step out. The guys can get quite agressive (even I got felt up a few times). By the ghats, a huge sound system pumps out some bhangra or other new pop music with big beats, as everyone (again, only dudes) raves on. It really felt like Holi was the day when everyone let loose their tension and frustration (a lot of it sexual) and many of these guys were doing very homoerotic dance moves, some with their pants off!The main street of Varanasi was nuts, like a war zone. All shops and businesse closed and nobody there but drunk lairy guys hurling paint running after and jumping on anyone who passed by, grabbing and tearing their clothes. It really felt like being in a zombie movie where the only people who survived were these weird colourful men. Others zoomed by on their motobrikes, faces painted gold or silver, wasted and singing songs or yelling "Happy Holiii", shooting paint at anyone from their water guns.

Walking back after we thought all the fun was over, I got 'attacked' by a group of guys who tore of my shirt and were pouring paint all over me. All in good fun, until they grabbed my trousers! I realized they were'nt going to stop so went a bit mental and pushed them off but they still managed to rip my underwear off! Crazy day... We ended it by taking a customary dip in the (gross) Ganga, where most of the paint comes off and the river runs red and purple. Pictures coming soon!

Soundtrack to my trip at the moment: The Brian Jonestown Massacre - Take it from the Man

Quotes

I've been told some pretty funny things since my trip began, here are some of them...


Saturday, March 3, 2012

FOOD!

I think the time has come to talk about food. Like so many things in India (and everywhere), food is different from town to town, and it's hard to generalize, or even begin to explain the food. I'll try and give an overview of my culinary experience so far...

Northern - Southern
Northern Food is much more based around chapati and naan and therefore most meals provide enough sauce or gravy for you to soak up with your bread. Famous dishes like Aloo Gobi (potato and cauliflower), Dhal (lentil and veg mix) and Paneer Palak (cheese and spinach) are prefect when ordered betwen several people, so that like chinese and Spanish food, you can have a bit of everything. There is also a strong Muglhai influence on the food which exists till this day, so that some dishes are similar to Middle Eastern cuisine.
Southern food is heavily rice based. In the school I taught at near Trichy, it was idli's for breakfast (spongy steamed rice balls), rice and sambar for lunch (rice with mixed veg) and dosa and dip for dinner (thin rice pancake). To be honest, it was a bit too much for me, and I prefer the juicy deliciousness of the north.

Veg - Non Veg
Before I came, I really thought I would become a near vegetarian in India; and then I ate meat and I wasn't sick, so I've kept eating meat, usually at least every 2 or 3 days. However, the veg dishes are usually so flavourful and nutritious that you don't really need/want meat, and most people you meet are vegetarian, so unless I'm alone, it's usually Veg. One dish you can find aboslutely everywhere is the thali, usually served in a metal plate, with chapati (flat floury round bread, similar to tortilla) or puri (deep fried bready mix) and 4 or 5 different things to dip into, with usually a side of rice and curd (like yogurt, good if the food is too spicy) to balance it all out.
As for the Non Veg though, Tandoori chicken is the best (cooked in a clay oven) when it's well done, juicy and chargrilled, and not too dry. There's a lot of mutton available too, but what I've tried hasn't been that good. Non Veg restaurants are much less common than Veg ones, and in non-touristy towns the meat joints are usually quite dingy and dark, located in the back alleys and frequented only by men, while the veg restaurants are more the happy, family type. This adds a layer of thrill (what stomach problems will I get this time?!) and a aura of sin to the meat restaurants that is fun.

The problem is, every place will cook up their own version of every dish, so you never know exactly what you're going to get. Menus here are usally in English which is great, and many places will serve their own take on chinese and continental, which doesn't always work (I once had a chicken sandwich wrapped in cling film with ketchup poured on top, on a plate).

Although India serves up some wacky food with new, intense, tastes, it's not at all as weird as the food was in China, which had a lot more meat, and therefore weird body parts ended up being used for cooking. India does offer a massive selection of fruit and fresh juices though, which are dirt cheap and usually filled with amazingness. Usually the juice-man will mix fruits for you if you ask nicely. My favourite is Pineapple-grape: too good.

Street Food
This is another dodgy one, but I quickly fell in love with the street food here. Everything is deep fried, so if it's just come off the pan it's pretty safe, and this is mostly the kind of snack I get during stops for long bus or train rides. These vary from town to town, but just about everywhere you can get yourself some samosas and deep fried onion mixed with potato and peppers. It's ridiculously cheap and usually delicious, though it can get very greasy.




Drinks
It's all about chai here, super sweet, super milky tea. I'm not sure if it's a spinoff of the English cup of tea, or if we copied the Indians, but its really good. Chai is everywhere. There are chai merchants on bicycles, motorbikes, in every street, in stations, trains, offices, malls... It's usually about 5 Rs for a small cup and a great start to the day, and although many foreigners complain about how sweet it is, i love it. One of my favourite things to do here is hit the chai shop around 8 in the morning, buy a cup of chai and some butter biscuits to dip, and watch India wake up and everyone getting to work.
Alcohol, like meat, is very 'underground' and even illegal in some states. It's decently priced in shops but usually expensive in restaurants, and bars are pretty rare. Some shops have little back rooms that you can drink in after purchasing your alcohol, and these are suuuper grimy and grungy and fun for a quick cheap drink with the locals. After beer, most people will choose rum or whisky. As far as local liquor, I havn't really tried any. I was scared off by the amount of deaths late last year from alcohol poisoning in small towns.


The strangest thing I've eaten here (and maybe anywhere ever) is Pan. It's basically a leaf filled with all kinds of weird stuff, powders and pastes and little sweets and nuts. Really, for my first (and last) pan the pan-man seemed to apply about 15 different things to the leaf, then roll it up and hand it to me. You're supposed to put the whole thing in your mouth and chew, which results in an explosion of really crazy weird flavours and things happening inside your mouth. It was too much for me, and since the leaf and some of the weird shiz wouldn't dissolve, I couldn't finish it. Many places will put some tobacco in the leaf also, giving you a buzz and so the snack has a highly addictive element. Aside from Pan, and more regularly used is a beetle nut and tobacco mix that people put in their mouths. Many time when you want to speak to a shopkeeper here, he will just mumble, not wanting to open his mouth, because this stuff makes you salivate so much. for this reason Indian streets are filled with little red spit stains. It also makes people's teeth all red, pretty gross stuff.


Although I've been craving Western Food from time to time, the thing I really miss the most is cooking. Who knew eating out could get boring! Well, not boring, I still have many places to see and things to taste coming up (next: Bengali Food!)